Whole-Home Repipe (PEX or Copper)

Why this matters

Whole-home repipe is the + specialty job that the basic service plumber can't do - it requires planning, demo + drywall coordination, multi-day on-site presence, + post-job pressure testing. Customer pain: persistent pinhole leaks on aged copper, lead-soldered joints, banned polybutylene (1978 - 1995 - class action lawsuits), galvanized steel rusting through from inside. The repipe-capable plumber bills the work + earns the customer's lifetime trust; the plumber who shies away from repipe sees the job go to a competitor + loses the customer entirely.

When repipe makes sense

Aged copper with pinholes (1970s - 1990s soft-grade)

• Thin-wall copper develops pinholes from inside corrosion
• Customer experiences leak after leak, each in a new spot
• Once 2+ pinholes in different locations, whole system at end of life
• Repipe + restart 50 yr life vs band-aid each leak

Polybutylene (PB) plastic (1978 - 1995, banned)

• Identified by gray/blue/black plastic with crimped barbed fittings
• Class-action settlement covered some installs; settlement now expired
• Insurance companies often decline coverage on PB homes
• Repipe is non-negotiable for any home selling

Galvanized steel (pre-1960s, rare in modern repipe but common in old homes)

• Inside rust restricts flow + flakes into water
• Low pressure throughout house
• Tan / orange water at fixtures
• Repipe with PEX or copper

Lead-soldered copper (pre-1986 plumbing)

• Lead solder leaches into water
• EPA action: lead service line replacement programs
• Replace solder OR repipe entire system

Mixed-material chaos from previous partial repairs

Material choice

• PEX-B (Apollo, SharkBite, Viega): crimp or push-to-connect, slightly stiffer, 50+ yr warranty, common in DIY/budget jobs.
• CPVC: solvent-welded, lower cost, brittle at low temps. Less popular in 2025.

Decision: PEX-A default. Copper for exposed mechanical rooms, customer aesthetic, or commercial spec. Avoid PEX-B in heavily chlorinated/chloraminated municipal water (brand-dependent; verify). Avoid CPVC unless customer requests + you've done it before.

Pre-job planning

Walk-through with customer: mark every fixture (kitchen + bath sinks, tubs, showers, toilets, washing machine, dishwasher, hose bibs, water heater), locate main shutoff, identify pressure regulator (existing or add), note unusual layouts (multi-zone, radiant), discuss drywall access scope. Plumbing permit required in virtually every jurisdiction; inspection scheduled before drywall close-up.

Material list: PEX tubing 1/2" + 3/4", PEX fittings, manifold or T-and-trunk distribution, new shutoff at each fixture, new pressure regulator if needed, pipe insulation, drywall + concrete patching scope.

Manifold (home-run): each fixture has its own line back to a manifold (like an electrical panel for water) - better pressure balance, no dead-leg, easier service. Trunk-and-branch: lower material cost + faster install, less ideal hot-water arrival.

Demo + access

Repipe requires access to virtually every wall + ceiling cavity. Two approaches:

Demo + drywall (most invasive):

• Open every wall containing pipe
• 4" × 24" - 48" cuts at each pipe run
• Re-drywall after pressure test

Behind-wall fishing (less invasive, advanced):

• Use chase + ceiling cavities to reach branches
• Drill 2 1/4" holes between studs to fish PEX
• 80 - 90% fewer wall cuts
• Slower install + requires planning

Hybrid (most common):

• Open select walls (kitchen, primary bath) for trunk runs
• Fish branches behind drywall to other fixtures
• Drill access holes in finished wall for fixture connections

Install sequence (typical 3-bedroom home)

Day 1: shut off water at meter, drain, cut access at main + runs, install 3/4" trunk, set manifold location (utility closet or near water heater), run home-runs to each fixture.

Day 2: run 1/2" branches, connect fixture supplies, install new shutoff at each fixture, replace pressure regulator if needed, install hose bibs.

Day 3: pressure test 100 PSI / 30 min (no drop), customer walk-through of new shutoffs + manifold, inspector visit + permit close, drywall patch + texture (separate trade), paint touch-up.

Pressure testing

Cap all open ends. Air test 50 PSI / 30 min no drop, then water 100 PSI / 30 min no drop. Inspect every visible joint with light + listening device. Failure: locate via soapy water OR moisture detection, repair, retest. Pass: inspector signs off, restore service.

Insurance + warranty

Customer concern: insurance after polybutylene OR persistent-leak history.

Plumber warranty: 1 - 5 years labor; manufacturer 25 - 50 yr pipe.

Insurance follow-up: provide customer documentation of repipe - receipt, photos, permit close - for their insurance underwriter.

Common repipe mistakes

Skipping fixture replacement: old fixture connection corroded, fails 1 month after repipe; customer blames repipe.

No manifold + dead-leg branches: hot water takes forever to arrive; customer complains.

Inadequate pressure test: hidden leak in wall; surfaces months later as drywall damage.

Forgetting drains: this is water-supply repipe; drains separate. Customer surprised when drain leaks aren't fixed.

Cheap shutoff valves: ball valves seize after a year. Use quality brand (Apollo, NIBCO, Milwaukee).

Wrong fitting for PEX brand: Uponor expansion on PEX-B = leak. Match fitting system to PEX type.

References

• IAPMO Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC)
• IPC International Plumbing Code
• Uponor + Viega installation manuals
• Class action settlement records for polybutylene
• Manuall internal: PEX vs Copper vs CPVC, Pipe Size + Material Reference