Replace a Kitchen or Bathroom Faucet

Goal

Replace an existing faucet with a new one in a kitchen or bathroom. Common service - about 60 % of "I want a new faucet" calls are easy 30 - 60 minute swaps; the other 40 % discover corroded shut-offs, broken supply lines, or wall-stud issues that turn the simple swap into a 2-hour job. Quote with that variability in mind.

Prerequisites

• New faucet kit (verify hole count matches sink: 1-hole, 3-hole 4" centerset, 3-hole 8" widespread)
• New supply lines (replace any older than 5 years - false economy to reuse)
• Possible new shutoff valves (quote upgrade if customer's existing are crusty)
• Basin wrench (the only tool for tight-space nuts under the sink)
• Plumbers putty OR silicone caulk
• Towel, bucket
• 30 - 90 minutes

Steps

1. Shut off supplies. Both hot + cold at the angle stops under the sink. Open faucet to relieve pressure.
2. Disconnect supply lines from the faucet's tailpieces with an adjustable wrench. Bucket below to catch water.
3. Remove the old faucet's mounting nuts with a basin wrench. The basin wrench is the secret weapon - adjustable wrenches don't fit in the space.
4. Lift the old faucet out. Some have a sealing gasket beneath; clean any putty or grime off the sink deck.
5. Test-fit the new faucet before final install. Verify all parts present (sometimes spray heads, escutcheons, or specific gaskets are missing from the box).
6. Apply gasket (if included) or plumbers putty under the new faucet base. Silicone is preferred over putty on stainless or stone counters; putty stains stone.
7. Lower the new faucet through the sink holes. Have a helper hold from above while you tighten from below.
8. Tighten the mounting nuts with the basin wrench. Snug, not gorilla-strength.
9. Connect new supply lines to the faucet tailpieces. Each side: hand-tight + 1/4 turn with a wrench. Over-tightening damages the rubber gasket on flexible supply lines.
10. Open shutoff valves slowly while watching for leaks at every connection. Wait 30 seconds at each step.
11. Open the faucet to bleed air. Hot side may sputter - that's air; pass after 30 seconds.
12. Remove the aerator + flush debris for 1 - 2 minutes. New plumbing accumulates flux + debris that clogs aerators if left in.
13. Reinstall the aerator + check for leaks one more time after 5 minutes of dripping water.

Verification

• No leaks at supply line connections
• No leaks at faucet base (water doesn't seep around it during use)
• Both hot + cold operate at expected flow
• Spray + diverter functions work (kitchen faucets)
• Customer signs the field report; demonstrates operation

Troubleshooting

• Old shutoff stuck or leaking when reopened: replace shutoff. Many shops include shutoff replacement as standard with faucet swaps.
• New faucet leaks at the base after install: gasket / putty wasn't seated correctly OR mounting nuts not tight enough. Pull + redo the gasket seal.
• Hot side has no pressure: hot supply was kinked OR the angle stop wasn't fully open. Verify.
• Cold drips at the supply connection: line nut not fully tight OR a damaged gasket. Tighten or replace the supply line.
• Aerator screen clogged immediately: debris from the new plumbing. Clean once + monitor.

References

• IAPMO Uniform Plumbing Code, Chapter 4 (Plumbing Fixtures)
• Manufacturer install instructions for the specific faucet
• Manuall internal: Replace a Toilet, Annual Whole-Home Plumbing Inspection