Wood Burning Best Practices for Customers
Why this matters
Customers love their fireplaces but often don't know how to burn wood safely + efficiently. Poor burning practices create creosote, smoke problems, inefficient heat, and chimney damage. A chimney sweep who teaches customers how to burn well becomes the trusted expert; the customer's system performs better + lasts longer. This reference is the customer-education foundation.
Wood selection
Best woods
| Wood | Properties |
|---|---|
| Oak (red + white) | Premium; long-burning; high BTU; clean |
| Hickory | Premium; very high BTU; clean |
| Maple (hard) | Good BTU; clean-burning |
| Cherry | Good; pleasant aroma |
| Ash | Easy to split; good BTU |
| Beech | High BTU |
| Birch | Good; faster-burning than oak |
| Hard maple | Good |
These hardwoods burn hot, long, and clean.
Less ideal woods
| Wood | Notes |
|---|---|
| Soft pine | High creosote (resin); use only for kindling |
| Cedar (Western red) | Aromatic; burns fast; lower BTU |
| Aspen | Lower BTU; faster burning |
| Cottonwood | Lower BTU; less ideal |
| Willow | Lower BTU; burns slowly + cool |
These work for fireplaces but with limitations.
Never burn
| Material | Why not |
|---|---|
| Wet / unseasoned wood | High creosote; difficult to start; smoldering smoke |
| Treated lumber (CCA, AC2) | Toxic combustion products |
| Painted wood | Toxic combustion products |
| Plywood | Adhesives + glues = toxic |
| OSB / particleboard | Same |
| Trash / paper products | Toxic + can ignite chimney lining |
| Pressure-treated wood | Arsenic / copper in older treatments |
| Christmas trees (fresh) | Resin = creosote spike |
Customer education on this list is critical.
Wood seasoning
Wood must be properly seasoned (dried):
| Seasoning time | Result |
|---|---|
| 1 year | Hardwood; minimum for proper burning |
| 2 years | Premium quality; hardwood at its best |
| 6 months | Some softwoods acceptable; hardwood inadequate |
| Less than 6 months | Wet wood; creosote production high |
How to recognize seasoned wood:
| Property | Seasoned | Unseasoned |
|---|---|---|
| Color | Gray / weathered ends | Bright; just-cut color |
| Cracks | Multiple radial cracks visible | Few or no cracks |
| Sound (when struck) | Higher-pitched, ringing | Dull thud |
| Bark | Loose, falling off | Tight |
| Weight | Lighter than green wood | Heavy |
| Moisture meter | Below 20% | Above 25% |
A moisture meter (consumer tool) verifies seasoning accurately.
Wood storage
Proper storage:
- Off the ground (pallets, raised platform)
- Covered top, open sides (rain protection; air circulation)
- Sunny + dry location
- Air circulation through the pile
- Stack with split-side up for water shedding
Storage method affects seasoning quality + speed.
Wood sizing
For typical residential fireplaces:
| Wood size | Use |
|---|---|
| Kindling (small splits) | Starting fires |
| Medium splits | Initial burn; maintaining fire |
| Large splits / unsplit | Once fire is established |
Match wood size to the fire stage. Large pieces on a small fire = smolder + creosote.
Building a fire
Top-down method (recommended)
The modern best practice:
- Bottom layer: large splits (3-4 logs)
- Middle layer: medium splits (perpendicular to bottom)
- Top layer: small splits + kindling
- Light the top
- Fire burns down
Result:
- Cleaner combustion (fire moves into established coal bed)
- Less smoke during startup
- Less creosote
- Easier to maintain
Traditional bottom-up method
For comparison:
- Kindling + paper at the bottom
- Light from below
- Build up with larger wood
This generates more smoke at startup.
Tipi method
Some prefer:
- Kindling crisscrossed
- Building outward
- Lighting
Works but more involved.
Burning a fire properly
For best combustion:
- Open the damper fully when starting
- Don't restrict the air during the first 30 minutes
- Open the air supply on wood stoves
- Let the fire burn hot initially (30-60 minutes)
- Reduce the air once the fire is established
- Add wood when needed but not too much at once
The goal: hot, complete combustion. Smoldering = poor combustion = creosote.
Fire characteristics
| Fire characteristic | What it means |
|---|---|
| Bright orange / yellow flames | Hot, good combustion |
| Blue flames at the base | Excellent combustion (some gases burning) |
| Lots of dark smoke | Incomplete combustion; smoldering |
| Little visible flame, mostly coal | Hot bed of coals; efficient heating |
| Slow, low-intensity smoldering | Poor combustion; creosote-producing |
A well-managed fire is a hot, bright fire.
When to feed the fire
| Fire state | Action |
|---|---|
| Small coal bed | Add medium splits |
| Strong coal bed | Add large splits |
| Few coals | Add kindling + small splits |
| Almost out | Restart with kindling |
Don't add wet wood to a marginal fire; it smolders.
Damper management
The damper controls the chimney draft:
| Damper position | Effect |
|---|---|
| Fully open | Maximum draft; fast burning |
| Partially open | Slower burning; warmer house |
| Closed (or almost) | Smolders; smoke into room; creosote production |
For best burning: fully open during startup; partially open during established burn; closed only when fire is completely out + cool.
A common customer mistake: closing the damper "to slow the burn." Result: smolder + creosote.
Wood stoves vs. open fireplaces
Open fireplaces:
- Customer-facing; visual appeal
- Inefficient heat (most heat goes up chimney)
- Significant air loss from the home (drafts)
- Requires significant damper management
- Lower fuel efficiency
Wood stoves:
- More efficient (heat recovery from the box)
- Sealed combustion (more controlled)
- Better burning practices possible
- Modern stoves include catalytic converters
- Higher fuel efficiency
Customer's choice; chimney sweep services both.
Pellet stoves
Different from wood:
- Burns wood pellets (manufactured from compressed sawdust)
- Automated feed (pellet hopper)
- Often electric-powered controls
- More consistent burn quality
- Less creosote (more complete combustion)
- Different service requirements
Some chimney sweeps service these; many specialize in wood-only.
Fireplace inserts
A wood stove built into an existing fireplace:
- Converts open fireplace to insert
- More efficient heating
- Easier to maintain proper burning
- Different chimney requirements (often relined)
Common upgrade for customers wanting efficiency from an existing fireplace.
What customers should avoid
References
- NFPA 211 (Standard for Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents)
- CSIA (Chimney Safety Institute of America) educational materials
- USDA Forest Service wood burning guidance
- EPA solid fuel combustion guidelines
- Manuall internal: Creosote Levels, Annual Chimney Inspection, Fireplace Safety