How to Clean a Dryer Vent
Why a sweep crew sells this
Dryer-vent fires cause ~15,000 U.S. residential fires per year (NFPA + USFA data). Same skill set as chimney sweep: ladder, brush, vacuum, lint = creosote analogue. Customer already trusts the brand; attach rate at sweep visits is 25-40%. Service price. Net margin > sweep itself because no roof harness + faster turnaround.
When dryer vents need cleaning
- Annually for typical residential
- Every 6 months if family of 5+ or daily laundry
- Symptoms customer reports: clothes take 2+ cycles to dry, dryer body hot to touch, burning smell, lint visible at exterior hood, no air movement at hood when running
Tools
- Dryer-vent brush kit (flexible nylon brush + 30-50 ft of segmented fiberglass rods)
- Cordless drill (powers the brush rotation)
- HEPA vacuum + crevice tool
- Anemometer (air-flow meter,) - measures before/after
- Camera scope (optional but a great proof point)
- 16 ft extension ladder if vent terminates above grade
- Drop cloth + masking tape
Procedure
Step 1: Locate both ends
Find the dryer (back of laundry room or basement) + the exterior vent termination (typically a wall hood with a flapper). Map the run mentally - straight, one elbow, two elbows? Length? Each elbow = ~5 ft equivalent length; total equivalent length should not exceed 35 ft per IRC + manufacturer spec.
Step 2: Pre-test
Turn dryer on (heat OFF, fan ON). Anemometer at the exterior hood:
- Good: 1200-1800 FPM
- Marginal: 800-1200 FPM
- Failing: < 800 FPM
Record this for before/after proof.
Step 3: Disconnect dryer
- Pull dryer 18-24" from wall
- Loosen the clamp at the back of the dryer
- Disconnect the transition hose
- Tape a drop cloth to the floor under the dryer
- Inspect transition hose: if it's plastic/foil flex, replace with rigid or semi-rigid metal at the same visit ( add-on)
Step 4: Brush from outside in
Best practice. Lint travels with airflow toward the dryer; brushing same direction packs less.
- Remove exterior hood cover
- Insert brush head + 4-6 ft of rod
- Spin with drill at 600-800 RPM, push + pull
- Add rod sections as you progress
- Continue until brush hits the laundry-room wall opening
Step 5: Vacuum from inside
- HEPA vacuum at the laundry-room wall stub
- Run for 60 seconds - sucks loose lint released by brushing
- Reverse vacuum to exterior, run another 30 seconds
Step 6: Vent box + dryer interior
The dryer lint trap is one filter. There's a second lint zone INSIDE the dryer below the lint screen - vacuum the screen housing + the area you can reach with a crevice tool. This is where most of the lint actually accumulates.
Step 7: Exterior hood
- Hood flapper should move freely - if stuck with lint, clean or replace ( hood)
- Mesh on hood? Code prohibits screens (NFPA 54 + manufacturer spec). Remove + dispose; note on invoice
- Bird/animal damage? Document + price replacement
Step 8: Reconnect dryer
- Replace transition hose if needed (UL 2158A semi-rigid only - never foil/plastic flex anymore)
- Clamp both ends snug
- Push dryer back, leaving 2"+ behind for the transition (don't crush)
- Plug in / connect gas
Step 9: Post-test
Anemometer again at exterior hood. Document the improvement. A 30% airflow increase is the typical "sale closed" number.
Step 10: Show + invoice
Show the customer the lint pile. Photo of the volume - usually 2-5 gallons of lint per typical residential. Photo of the before/after airflow reading. They paid for proof.
Acceptance criteria
- Airflow at hood > 1200 FPM
- No visible lint accumulation in the run
- Transition hose UL 2158A rigid/semi-rigid metal
- Hood flapper operates
- Customer signed + has photos
Common pitfalls
- Brushing TOWARD dryer: packs lint at the elbow nearest dryer; future clog 8 weeks later
- Leaving foil/plastic flex: code violation + #1 fire start point; replace every time
- Skipping the dryer interior: returns in 3 months "still slow"
- Not measuring before/after: customer has no proof of value
- Skipping the lint trap housing vacuum: 30% of lint is here
- Not removing exterior screen: customer thinks you missed it
- Aluminum-foil tape on connections: melts; use UL 181-listed foil tape or screw clamps
Safety considerations
- Gas dryer: shut off + cap line during service. If you don't hold a gas license + customer has a gas dryer, do the duct only; refer the appliance side
- Electric: unplug
- Watch lint inhalation: respirator + eye protection
- Brush rotation can grab - never gloves with loose fingers near the drill chuck
Common findings to upsell
- Vent run too long: relocate dryer or reroute ( by GC + sweep)
- Vent run uphill with sags collecting lint: rerouted
- Roof-vented dryer above attic: clogs constantly + animal entry. Quote redirect to side wall
- Dryer in tight closet: needs more space behind for transition
The anemometer reading IS the close + the proof. A customer who sees their airflow go from 700 FPM to 1500 FPM after of work writes a 5-star review without being asked. The meter pays for itself in the first week. Make the reading the headline of the invoice.
References
- NFPA 211 (chimneys + dryer vents)
- IRC M1502 (dryer exhaust)
- UL 2158A (transition duct)
- NFPA + USFA dryer-fire incidence data
- Manuall internal: Chimney Sweep Service SOP