Pool Closing Service
Purpose
Define the fall pool-closing protocol for residential in-ground pools in regions with winter freeze. A correct closing prevents freeze damage to the equipment + plumbing - a single cracked pump housing or freeze-burst pipe in February is a + spring repair. The customer who pays for the close avoids paying for the repair.
Scope
Applies to:
- Residential in-ground pools with freeze risk
- Salt-system pools (cell removal + storage)
- Pools with attached spas (combo closing adds 30 min)
Excludes pools that stay open year-round (Sunbelt regions), and commercial pools (separate scope).
Responsibilities
- Dispatcher schedules closes Oct - Nov in northern regions, Nov - Dec in mid-Atlantic
- Lead technician runs the protocol; trainee handles cover handling + water bag deployment
- Customer is briefed on the post-close monitoring + spring re-open scheduling
Procedure
- Customer briefing. "I'll lower the water, blow the lines clear, treat the water with winterizing chemicals, and install the cover. About 2 hours."
- Final water test + chemical balance. pH 7.4 - 7.6, alkalinity 80 - 120, calcium hardness in range, free chlorine ~3 ppm.
- Shock the pool. Cal-hypo or dichlor to 10 - 15 ppm chlorine to oxidize any contaminants before closing.
- Add winterizing algaecide per the product label rate. Polyquat 60 (no metals) is the standard residential choice.
- Lower the water level below the skimmer and return lines:
- Mesh cover: 6" below skimmer
- Solid cover: 12" below skimmer
- For above-ground: drain to below the skimmer outlet
- Drain all equipment. Remove drain plugs from:
- Pump (strainer lid drain + housing drain)
- Filter (drain at the bottom; cartridge filters: pull cartridge and store dry; sand filter: backwash + drain; DE filter: pull grids + clean)
- Heater (every drain plug; verify the manual - gas heaters have multiple)
- Salt cell: REMOVE entirely, rinse, store indoors
- Blow out all plumbing. Use a high-volume air compressor (shop vac in blow mode works for smaller pools). Connect to the skimmer line, blow until bubbles continuously exit each return jet, then plug each jet with a winterizing plug.
- Plug the skimmer. Either a gizzmo (a hollow tube that absorbs ice expansion) OR an expandable rubber freeze plug.
- Add antifreeze (RV / pool antifreeze, NEVER automotive) to the lines that remained partially full after blow-out - typically not needed if blow-out was thorough.
- Install the cover. Mesh covers need water bags around the perimeter; solid covers need water tubes. Pump cover surface dry (or it'll pool during winter and stretch the cover).
- Document. Photo of the closed pool + cover + each equipment drain plug pulled (so spring techs know what to reinstall).
- Hand off the customer's cover anchor key / hardware and confirm spring open-up scheduling.
Acceptance Criteria
- Water below skimmer + return ports
- All equipment drained + plugs collected (photographed) for spring
- All plumbing blown clear + ports plugged
- Cover installed + secured with appropriate weight system
- Customer signs field report; antifreeze (if used) + chemicals documented
- Salt cell removed + stored indoors (if applicable)
Improper blow-out is the #1 cause of freeze-burst plumbing claims. Lines that retained water at the skimmer or behind a return wall fitting WILL crack in February - and the customer's first sign is a flooded equipment area at spring opening. Verify EACH return + the skimmer + the main drain line has been blown to dry. Take an extra 10 minutes here; it saves a spring callback.
References
- APSP/PHTA closing standards for residential pools
- Equipment manufacturer service literature
- Manuall internal: Pool Opening Service, Weekly Recurring Pool Service